As the Beatles sang, “I’ve got to admit, it’s getting better - a little better all the time.” And truly, a few years ago, it didn’t seem that the lakefront could get much worse.

Chicago’s greatest treasure was not a pretty sight. Littered with trash, its water polluted, the lakefront was heavily used, but not by anybody with any sense. Now a chain of well-maintained parks and protected areas provide a great unifying artery between the North and South sides. Runners, cyclists, rollerbladers, and the purely pedestrian enjoy Lake Michigan in comfort and with a much greater degree of safety.

Let’s start at its southern tip and walk north. Wearing comfortable shoes? Good.

Landscape architects Olmsted & Vaux created the plan for Jackson Park in 1871, and Frederick Law Olmsted realized a larger vision in his design for the World’s Columbian Exposition in 1893. The fair also fostered the creation of the Museum of Science and Industry at 57th street. Nearby Promontory Point is Hyde Park’s back yard, a pleasant place to barbecue, toss a frisbee, or picnic on a summer afternoon.

Designating an area to be kept “forever open, free, and clear” in 1836, city fathers first authorized the creation of Lake Park, renamed Grant Park in honor of the Civil War general and President. It’s largely built on landfill, debris pushed to the water’s edge in the aftermath of the Great Chicago Fire of 1871. Grant Park’s boundaries gradually expanded to include the Field Museum, Adler Planetarium, and the Shedd Aquarium, located in the “museum campus” bordered on the north by the Art Institute and to the south by Soldier Field, home of the Chicago Bears football team. Buckingham Fountain honors an Art Institute trustee and represents the four states bordering Lake Michigan. Bets may be laid as to which bronze sea creature represents which state. It spouts a magnificent column of water every hour, on the hour.

Michigan Avenue’s Loop “street wall” faces Monroe Yacht Club, and the path leads on to Navy Pier, where fireworks and a Ferris wheel vie with cruise ships and trade shows for your attention and dollars. Continuing north past Oak Street Beach, boy- and girl-watchers may slow to catch the buff bods of championship volleyball players. Passing casting pools, tennis courts, soccer fields, dog exercise runs and chess tables, the lakefront tourist may also visit the Chicago Historical Society, the Lincoln Park Zoo, the Conservatory, the new Academy of Sciences, or the Museum of Surgical Science! Tired out yet? Rest at one of the commissaries at Belmont Harbor before you arrive at Hollywood...Hollywood Avenue, that is.

Tip: the lakefront’s pleasures must be enjoyed in moderation. At Olive Park, in the lee of the water treatment plant, I well remember a birthday party at which all posted laws were broken: swimming, barbecue, and alcoholic beverages were all enjoyed. Don’t try this now. In response to concern for public safety, Chicago’s Finest will be happy to confiscate any liquor not purchased from an approved vendor!